With Spring just around the corner lots are thinking Home Improvements.
Remember cheapest is not always the best. Here’s some helpful hints to follow
Choosing a Remodeling Contractor
Choosing a home remodeling contractor is not always as simple as picking the lowest-priced bid for the job. An “apples to apples” comparison is not easy to make. Quality of work, as well as what’s included in the contract and what’s not, can vary substantially from contractor to contractor. There are many things a homeowner should consider:
- What kind of attention to detail does the contractor exhibit in his work?
- Will he cut corners in areas that may affect the integrity of the job?
- Will he use substandard or lower-quality materials and products?
- How well does he deal with changes that may occur as the job progresses?
- Will he charge excessive rates for changes?
- Will he accommodate your household needs during the construction process?
- Will he follow up on your needs and concerns after the job is completed?
- Will he bring in subcontractors you don’t know to do the work?
- Is the estimator the one who will be doing the work?
It is in your best interest as a homeowner to be looking for the most value for your money, not necessarily the lowest price for the job.
Our recommendation: First, choose a contractor you are confident can satisfy the above concerns. Second, check his references. Third, work with that contractor to negotiate a remodeling project that is within your budget.
At J.T. Pulliam Construction, we are dedicated to giving you the best value for your money and the most hassle-free and enjoyable remodeling experience. We would be happy for the opportunity to serve you, but should you choose not to use us, we wish you the best of success with your project. Please do not hesitate to call on us again in the future.
Spring Maintenance Tips
It’s spring, which means flowers, rain, baseball, gardening, bbq’s, desperate attempts to get in shape before swimsuit season, skipping work to be outside before it gets unbearably hot…
Spring also means it’s time for home maintenance after a winter of neglect. Don’t feel too bad about it–you’re not the only one to hibernate from maintenance during the winter.
Following are some simple tips to keep your home operating in tip-top condition.
Spring Maintenance Tips
Inside
Try out your air conditioning system. If you wait until the first hot day to check your AC and it doesn’t work, you will have a long, hot wait before the repair people can get to it. They’ll be overworked and cranky by the time they get to your home; you’ll be cranky because you’re so darn hot.
Remember to inspect/replace your HVAC filter monthly.
Check and clean the clothes dryer vent and stove hood.
If you have a coil-back refrigerator–you probably do–vacuum the coils at least twice each year. Your refrigerator will run much more efficiently with clean coils.
Clean everything, top to bottom! Use non-toxic soaps for better indoor air quality.
Now get outside and enjoy the weather!
Outside – Up High
Make sure you are properly hydrated, wearing appropriate sun and bug protection, and listening to motivational music.
Inspect the roof for damaged, loose or blistered shingles. Have damaged shingles replaced if they’re on less than 20% of the roof. Reroof if damaged shingles cover more than 20% of the roof.
Examine flashing around chimneys, vents, and roof edges.
Remove debris from gutters and downspouts and patch any holes. Make sure the downspouts direct water at least 5 feet away from your foundation walls.
Examine fascia or soffit boards. Replace if they are soft or rotting because they may allow rain into your attic. If you live in a hurricane-prone region, extend the fascia so it terminates below the underside of the soffit.
Trim branches and shrubs that are touching your home which can provide a pathway for bugs or excess moisture to enter your home.
Remove dead branches that may fall on your home. Snap!
Outside – Down Low
Clean up fallen limbs, branches and other debris around the home to discourage the proliferation of wood-eating insects. Termites = bad.
Clean out basement window wells.
Inspect/replace caulk on windows, doors, and other penetrations, such as dryer vents and cable wire holes. Inspect the condition of the caulking where two different materials meet, for example where wood siding joins the foundation’s wall or at inside corners. Improper caulking provides an avenue for moisture to get inside your walls and cause mold.
Check the condition of the exterior surfaces. Touch up any areas that need paint before they deteriorate further. Inspect bricks and concrete blocks for cracked mortar or loose joints.
Inspect grading around the house to be sure water drains away from the foundation on all sides. If water pools near the house, you could be in for a very wet basement and difficult spring removing water and even mold from the basement.
Make sure that your lawn sprinkler heads do not spray the walls of the house. Water = bad.
Check your inside and outside foundation walls and piers for termite tubes and damaged wood.
Once you’ve finished, sit back, relax, and feel proud of the great work you’ve done over a refreshing Beer.
Dealing with Dry Rot
Dry rot is the term used for identifying timber decay. The “dry” rot was called as such for it was believed that the decay was caused by internal infestation not brought about by an external element such as water. Dry rot has long been identified as the decay of timber (building, ship’s haul and other wooden structures)) caused by fungal infestation.
The term dry rot is a misnomer for the fungi need water to thrive. However the name persisted as this form of decay is found in timber that is not damp or wet. Dry rot is not evident on timber that is constantly wet and on timber that is perpetually dry.
What causes dry rot?
Dry rot is caused by two types of fungi: Serpula lacrymans in the UK, Europe and Asia and Meruliporia incrassate in the United States. The fungi attack both hardwood and softwood timber. They “feed” on the fibre of the wood tuning the wood spongy and soft with a musty-wet smell. The fungi destruct the fibre of the timber which in turn discolours the wood which would eventually leads to its decay. The infestation is mostly coloured brown thus in some countries dry rot is synonymous with brown rot. The fungi thrive in moist and humid places and in wood that has not been pre-treated.
Dry rot can attach itself on concrete and stones too. Though the fungi will not be able to “feed” on the moisture content of the stone and concrete, its mycelia (thread-like part that feeds) has the capacity to creep across stretches of stone to source water from a feasible location. The mycelia help propagate the spread of the specific fungus and affect more wood in the process. If the infestation is not stopped in due time the structural strength of the wood will be compromised and the building itself will eventually be affected. Dry rot is deceiving for it can infest and spread on wood that has been coated with paint.
What are the signs of dry rot?
Dry rot is probably a term feared by most homeowners. Dry rot can very well result in the growth of other more toxic moulds such as the black mould. There had been instances when whole structures were burnt down due to extensive dry rot that resulted in an uncontrolled black mould plague. What are the telltale signs of dry rot? If you suspect dry rot, consider if the affected wood has some source of moisture as the first “invisible” sign of dry rot is wet-musty smell.
Find the source of the odour. Once you have pinpointed it, inspect the wood and see if there are cracks that are more or less cube-like in shape. A fairly new infestation will show cotton-wool and off-white mass on timber and sometimes on brick or stone walls. As the fungi takes a stronger hold on the infected surface, strands called mycelia will start its steady spread to infect more wood and at the same time source water for the growth and spread of dry rot. These mycelia can grow to a finger-thick diameter and are brittle when dry. The “wetness” or “dryness” of these thread-like parts is a good indication to see whether the dry rot is active or not.
Some infestations will show “teardrops” growth on the cotton-wool mass. Dry rot damage is often limited to wood but in some instances, fruiting bodies that resemble large mushrooms can grow on stone, concrete, plaster and paint finishes. These fruiting growths are soft and pancake-like and are dark yellow in colour. Their edges are dotted with red spores.
How do you treat dry rot?
Dry rot affects timber that has 20% to 30% moisture content. Eliminating the source of moisture is the primary course of action in treating dry rot.
Houses and other structures ideally should be moisture-proof but such is not the case. Wood within the structure can absorb moisture through leaks in the plumbing system. Other probable sources of leaks are washing machines, bathtubs, shower stalls. Damp could also be caused by the normal condensation that occurs in buildings that could have been caused by leaks in the roofing system, moisture that seeps through walls and in some cases, rising damp.
If the source of moisture has been identified, eliminate the source and allow the timber or wood to dry thoroughly. If mechanical source is required to dry the timber, then you can outsource the equipment. It would even be better if you let professionals do the procedure.
In some situations, the dry rot could have caused damage to an extent to the timber. If this is the case, replacement of the timber is the best option. If dry rot damage is still minimal and there is no need for replacing the affected wood, then chemical treatment is the best solution. This option should also be done in timber that is at risk of being infected because they were around wood that has been infected and replaced.
An effective fungicide is borate or boric acid. If the moisture cannot be controlled or if the dry rot is well rooted, then treating the wood to eliminate the fungus and inhibit its growth is your next best course. Borates are generally applied or sprayed in liquid form. This would hold effective for dry wood. But for wood that is already damp or saturated with water, liquid borate might not prove effective. In “wet” wood, using fuse borate is your best option for treatment.
To prevent dry rot, make sure that all timber parts in your house are properly treated during construction or during repair works.
If your deck is showing some wear and tear after being exposed to the weather for a few years, make it look new again by applying a little first aid. Here’s the to-do list:
Wash
Before making any repairs to the deck, remove dirt and wood fibers with a pressure washer. When using one, be sure to keep the pressure stream moving. Otherwise, you could gouge the wood. Allow the deck to dry overnight.
Fix nail pops
If you encounter a nail that has worked loose from a board, remove the nail with a cat’s paw or a hammer. Use a screw that’s longer than the nail to reattach the board.
Repair split wood
If you have a board that’s split down the middle, mark the damaged board next to the leading edge of the first support joist that’s completely past the split. Be sure not to mark an area that’s directly over a joist or you could damage your saw when you begin cutting.
Cut the board with a jigsaw, remove the nails or deck screws and remove the damaged wood. Use deck screws to attach a pressure-treated 2-by-4-inch support block to the joist. The support block will hold the replacement board in position. Cut a replacement board to size, pre-drill and fasten it to the support block and joists with deck screws.
Your replacement board may appear to be higher and wider than the existing wood, but it should shrink as it loses moisture. If the board still appears to be higher than the surrounding boards after being in place for a few weeks, you can smooth it down with a belt sander. Be sure that all nail or screw heads are recessed into the wood before you begin sanding.
Stain and seal
Even though pressure-treated lumber resists insects and decay, it’s still vulnerable to moisture and the sun’s rays. To preserve it without changing the color, use s clear wood preservative that contains a UV protector, which will bring new life to the surface while protecting it from the elements. If you want to add color, use an exterior stain first. Exterior stains come in both solid and semi-transparent finishes. Always use the semi-transparent for the decking area, but try a solid color if you want to highlight railings or banisters; it ends up looking like a painted finish. Exterior stains are available in oil or latex, and both provide fade and mildew resistance.
Wearing protective eyewear and gloves, apply preservative or stain with a roller or a brush. Let the product sit on the wood decking for about 20 minutes so that it has time to penetrate, and then go back over the surface with a brush to give the deck a more consistent finish (this also helps get rid of any puddles that will dry as shiny patches). Apply a second coat for good coverage and protection.
Allow the deck to dry for 48 hours, and then apply a sealant.
Termites can cause a significant amount of damage before you realize that there is a problem. Although it can be tough to spot a termite infestation, there are some signs that can alert you that your home has been invaded. Periodic inspections will help locate termites before they can endanger your home.
Identification
1.You can tell if you have a termite infestation if you see one of the following signs: swarms of flying termites in your home, mud tunnels along the foundation, tiny holes in wood, buckling paint or wings or sawdust around doors or windows. Termites are often confused with carpenter ants, but termites have wings that are the same length, straight antennae and thicker bodies than carpenter ants.
Features
2.Termites eat wood, whether it’s an old stump in your backyard or beam in your home. Termites usually enter your home through tiny cracks in the foundation and once inside start devouring all the wood and fiber they can find. As they chew through the wood, they leave a chemical trail behind, alerting other termites that they’ve found a good source of wood.
When faced with a concrete wall, termites build mud tubes and use these tubes to travel across areas that they can’t chew through. These tubes are also used for protection against predators and to provide moisture.
Considerations
3.Wood damage can be difficult to spot, as termites work below the surface of the wood. If the wood has darkened or is starting to blister, it could be a sign that termites are at work. If you poke a suspected area with a screwdriver and it crumbles, it is a good indication that termites are present or have been active in your home at some point.
Misconceptions
4.Spotting only a few termites doesn’t mean that you don’t have a serious infestation. Termites avoid the sun and bright lights and even though you won’t see them, there are thousands to millions of termites involved in an infestation.
While wet locations are more likely to attract termites, they can be found in every state in the United States and in many countries of the world.
Prevention/Solution
5.Don’t stack firewood against your house. You won’t be able to tell if the wood contains termites, and if it does, you’ll be providing them with easy access to your home. Keep wood mulch at least 18 inches from your home. Try using gravel instead if you need to prevent weeds next to your house. Because termites are drawn by moisture, it is important to fix leaks and remove standing water in or outside your home.
If you think you have termites, call a professional pest control company. The company you choose will discuss your options with you and suggest one or more of the following solutions: in-ground bait stations, using a liquid termicide in trenches dug around your house or drilling holes in your foundation and injecting termicide in the walls.
Spring Maintenance Checklist
Gutters and downspouts: Pull leaves and debris from gutters and downspouts. Reattach gutters that have pulled away from the house. Run a hose on the roof and check for proper drainage. If leaks exist, dry the area and use caulking or epoxy to seal the leak.
Siding: Clean siding with a pressure washer to keep mold from growing. Check all wood surfaces for weathering and paint failure. If wood is showing through, sand the immediate area and apply a primer coat before painting. If paint is peeling, scrape loose paint and sand smooth before painting.
Exterior caulking: Inspect caulking and replace if deteriorating. Scrape out all of the eroding caulk and recaulk needed area.
Window sills, door sills, and thresholds: Fill cracks, caulk edges, repaint or replace if necessary.
Window and door screens: Clean screening and check for holes. If holes are bigger than a quarter, that is plenty of room for bugs to climb in. Patch holes or replace the screen. Save bad screen to patch holes next year. Tighten or repair any loose or damaged frames and repaint. Replace broken, worn, or missing hardware. Wind can ruin screens and frames if they are allowed flap and move so make sure they are securely fastened. Tighten and lubricate door hinges and closers.
Drain waste and vent system: Flush out system.
Hot water heater: Lubricate circulating pump and motor.
